Covered heel and method of making same



March 1, 1932. J BAZZONI 1,847,290

COVERED HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Jan. 26" 1929 Fatented Mar.1, I932 STATES PATENT OFFICE LEWIS J. BAZZOITI, OF S'WAMPSCOTT,MASSACHUSETTS, .ASSIGNOR 'IO UNITED SHOE IVEACHINERY COILEOR-ATION, OFIPA'IJEEESON, NEV JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW v JERSEY COVERED ANDREE-T301) OF lvEAKING SAME Application filed January 26, 1929. SerialNo. 325,361.

One object of the present invention is to reduce the expense of makingcovered heels.

having paneled breast surfaces.

With this ob ect in view, and in accordance with the present invention,apaneled effect has been obtained in a covered heel without .recessin orotherwises eciall' are arin the surface of the heel in order tofacilitate the production of the desired ehect, and-a heel has beenprovided with a breast covering com-.

prising frame and panel members having respectively portions overlappedupon the breast face of the heel and constructed and arranged to providesubstantially flush joints between said members.

of overlap of the frame and panel members is such as to insure againstdanger of any portion of the heel core becoming exposed to view as aresult of shrinkage of the heel covering. As illustrated, the paneledelfect has been produced at the breast of a Cuban heel and to this end acovering for the rear and sides of the heel has been provided withextensions arranged to overlap the lateral margins of the heel breast,and a separate breast cover or flap has been applied so as partlally tooverlap the side cover extensions, the lateral edges of the separatebreast cover being spaced inwardly from the breast corners of the heelso as to leave exposed upon the breast surface at each side of thebreast cover relatively narrow portions of the side cover extensions inorder that these narrow portions may serve to frame the separate breastcover and thereby produce the desired paneled effect. As herein shown,the edge thickness of the panel member may, if necessary, be reduced bybevelingor skiving to suchan extent that substantially flush joints areformed between the Patent No. T

As shown, the extent.

panel and the frame members, thus improving the appearance of the heel.

As illustrated, the side cover extensions or frame portions are rabbetedto receive the overlapping margins of the breast covering or panel, ashoulder being formed along the exposed even though the cover jointsshould open up more or less because of shrinkage of the covering or forany other reason. Moreover, as illustrated, the rabbeting is accompished in such a Way as to provide a beveled surface extending from eachshoulder to the outer extremity of each side cover extension to receivethe overlapping margins of the breast covering "ithout producingundesirable ridges in the latter. This construction and arrangement isfurther advanta geous inasmuch as it insures against the presence of anydisfiguring bulge or ridge where the side cover extensions areoverlapped by the breast covering and insures that a flush joint Will besecured between these p0rtions of the heel covering.

lhe invention also provides an improved method of covering heels which,as herein illustrated, consists in applying to one face ofa heel a coverportion adapted to constitute a panel and another cover portion inposition to frame-one side of the panel, one of said cover portionshaving a beveled margin and the other having an unbeveled margin, andsec iring aid margins together with said unbeveled margin superposedupon said beveled margin.

0t ier features of the invention will be apparent from the followingdescription and will be particularly defined in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a covered heelembodying features of thepresent invention whereby a. panel effect is obtained at the 7 heelbreast;

I is illustrated as embodied in a heel H hav- Fig. 2 is a sectional viewon an enlarged scale taken along the line llll of Fig. 1;

Figs. 3 to 7, inclusive, are fragmentary sectional views illustrating;successive steps in the improved method of heel covering hereinafterdescribed;

Fig. 8 is a. fragmentary sectional view of a ing a side cover C and abreast covering B.

The side cover C extends around the rear and sides of the heel in thecustomary manner and has nd portions or extensions E which are-turnedinwardly t the breast corners to overlap the lateral margins of the heelbreast.

V The breast covering B is of less width than "sions E they do notentirely cover these extenthe heel breast and is applied so that whileits lateral margins overlap the side cover extensions but leave narrowportions thereof exposed to view at each side of the breast covering sothat a paneled heel breast effect is produced, the breast covering Bconstituting the panel and the side cover extensions serving to framethe opposite sides of the panel. In

" order to form flush joints between the breast covering l3 and the sidecover extensions E- the latter are shown as being rabbeted to providedepressed surfaces l) for engagement with the margins of the breastcovering and shoulders against which the edges of the breast coveringabut. To avoid the presence of undesirable ridgesor bulges where-thebreastcovering overlies the inner extremities of the side coverextensions, the depressed surfaces l) are beveled to form featherediii-- ner edges sothat when the side cover extensions are laid in placeagainst the breast edges of the heel the depressed surfaces D will blendwith the transverse curvature of the breast face. The shoulders S areformed by cuts which, as shown in Fig. l, are parallel to the adjacentbreast edges or corners of the heel. The breast cover B is trimmed tofit exactly wi hin the space between the shoulders S at the oppositesides of the heel breast and preferably the depth of the shoulder cutsis the same as the thickness of the breast cover sothat the outersurface of the breast cover is flush with the exposed surfaces of theside cover extensions.

In applying the side cover C itis coated with adhesive and wrappedaround the rear and sides of the heel in the usual way, the opposite endportions or extensions E of the cover being left projecting beyond thebreast corners, as shown in Fig. 3.

The rabbeting of each side cover extension may be effected, as shown inFig. l, b the single stroke of a skiving knife such as a hand knife 12having asingle fiat blade. To produce this result, as shown, the sidecover extension is supported upon the beveled surface 14 at one end of aplate 16 which is laid against the uncovered breast surface of the heel.The knife, while being drawn across the side cover extension, is guidedby the unbeveled upper surface of the plate 16 which is engaged by thefree extremity of the knife blade. The angle between the beveled surface14 and the unbeveled upper surface of the plate 16 is such that when theside cover extension is bent sharply over the end of the plate and madeto assume the position shown in Fig. 4: the path of the knife, asdetermined-by the plane of the unbeveled upper surface-of the plate 16is such as to cut through the outer surfaceof thecover extension along aline X located between the bend and the heel so that after the cut hasbeen made the thickness of the bent-over portion of the cover extension,at its junction with the unbent portion thereof, is substantially lessthan the full thickness of the cover. Accordingly, when the bend issubsequently removed from the cover extension by laying it against theheel breast, as shown in ig. 5, the innermost portion of the skivedsurface will be disposed at an abrupt angle to the remainder of theskived surface, thereby forming the shoulder S. he thickness of theplate 16 serves to space the shoulder S from the corner of the heelbreast and to insure that it will be parallel to the adjacent lateraledge of the heel breast. The distance between the shoulder S and thelateral edge of the heel breast may be varied by using plates 16 ofdifferent thicknesses. F urthermore, by employing plates having theirend portions beveled at different angles, corresponding variations maybe secured in the angle of bevel which is to be imparted to the sidecover extensions. When the side cover extensions have been laid againstthe margins of the heel breast as above described they are firmlysecured to the breast by the adhesive previously applied to the cover.

The breast coverings B are initially cut wide enough to overlap theunrabbeted portions of the side cover extensions and after being coatedwith adhesive and applied to the heel breast they appear as shown inFig. 61 Subsequently the opposite lateral margins of the breast coveringB are trimmed to adapt the covering to fit within the space betweenshoulders S, the paths of the trimming cuts being gaged from theadjacent lateral edges of the heel. For this purpose a hand trimmingtool such as that shown at 18 in Fig. 8 may convenientlybe employed. Asshown this tool comprises a rotary trimming knife 20 formed at one sideof a gage roll 22 adapted to engage the outer edge of the breastcovering to limit the depth of cut made by the knife 20 so that theknife will cut through knife 20 for determining tne path of trim-.

ming cutby engagement with the adjacent lateral edge or corner of theheel breast. By running this hand tool 18 alongthe breast corner fromthe top to the bottom of the heel the breast covering may be trimmedalong lines coinciding with the lines of the shoulder cuts S. Afterbeing trimmed itis only necessary to press the lateral margins of thebreast covering against the depressed surfaces D of the side coverextensions whereupon they will be securely held in place by adhesivepreviously applied to the breast covering.

If a breast covering is employed, having a thickness which is greaterthan the depth of the shoulders S, so that the margins of the breastcovering project outwardly beyond the surfaces of the side coverextensions, this excess thickness may be reduced by the use of a buliingwheel such as that indicated at 26 in Fig. 8 thereby providing a flushjoint between the breast covering and the side cover extensions.

In order to produce a paneled effect at the heel breast it is notessential, however,

that the margins of the side cover extensions f should be rabbeted asabove described, inasmuch as a paneled effect may be obtalned byproviding a breast covering which is narrower than the full width of theheel breast and applying the coveringso that its lateral margins overlapthe side cover. extensions" but do not entirely cover them.

Preferably, as shown in Fig. 9, the margins of the breast covering andside c yer extensions are initially beveled or feather edged by means ofslriving or bufling operations to insure that substantially flush jointswill be produced. I

ll hile the invention is herein illustrated and described in connectionwith its appli-' cation to Cuban heels it is applicable also to Louisheels and the breast covering may be applied either before or after theheel is attached to a shoe. Moreover the breast covering may be anintegral part of the shoe, e. g. a flap split from the sole and laidagainst the heel breast after the heel has been at tached. Accordingly,the claims are not to be construed as limited to unattached heels but asco "ering also heels which are attached to shoes and the breastsof whichare covered by means such a flap which is integral with the sole of theshoe.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desireto secureby Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. .A heel provided with a breast covering comprlsing frame and panelmembers having respectively portions overlapped upon the breast face ofthe heel and constructed and arranged to provide substantially flushjoints between said members.

2. A heel having a paneled covering comprising fraineportions havingbeveled margins, and a panel portion located between said frame portionsand overlapping the beveled margins only of the latter. 7

8'. A heel having a paneled covering coinp ising frame portions havingtheir, inner mar ins rabbeted to provide shoulders spaced from the edgesof said margins, and

a panel portion located between said frame portions and arranged withits opposite edges abutting the respective shoulders of said frameportions.

4. A heel having a paneled covering comprising a cover portion adaptedto constitute a panel and another cover portion adapted to frame oneside of the panel, one of said cover portions having a beveled marginand the other cover portion overlapping only the beveled margins of saidcover portion.

.5. A heel having a paneled breast covering comprising frameportlonsoverlylng the lateral margins of the heel breast, and a panelpotion partially overlapping said frame portions and having its exposedsurface flush with the exposed surfaces of said frame portions.

6. A heel having a paneled breast covering comprising side coverextensions over-' lapping the lateral margins of the heel breast, saidextensions being beveled and the outer edges of the beveled surfaces ofsaid extensions being spaced from tne heel breast corners, and a breastcover having its lateral margins overlapping the beveled surfaces of theside cover extensions.

7. A heel having a paneled breast covering comprising side coverextensions overlapping the lateral margins of the heel breast, saidextensions being beveled and the outer edges of the beveled surfaces ofsaid extensions being spaced from the heel breast corners, and a breastcover having its lateral margins overlapping the beveled surfaces of theside cover extensions and reduced in thickness to provide flush jointsbetween the breast cover and the side cover extensions.

8. A heel having a paneled breast covering comprising side coverextensions overlapping the lateral margins of the heel said extensionshaving their outer surfaces rabbeted to provide shoulders spaced fromthe heel breast corners and margins of less thickness than theunrabbeted portions of the side cover extensions, and a breast coverhaving its lateral margins of a thickness corresponding to the width ofsaid shoulders seated in the rabbeted portions of the side coverextensions, the thickness of said lateral margins corresponding to thewidth of said shoulders so that the exposed surface of said cover isflush with the exposed surfaces of the side cover extensions.

10. A heel having a paneled breast covering comprising side coverextensions overlapping the lateral margins of the heel breast, each ofsaid extensions having a shoulder formed in its exposed surface andspaced from the adjacent breast corner of the heel and having also abevel d surface extending from said shoulder to the inner edge of theextension, and a breast cover having its lateral margins overlying thebeveled surfaces of the respective side cover extensions and its lateraledges abutting the shoulders of the respective side cover extensions.

11. That improvement in methods of covering heels iich consists inrabbeting the margin of ieel covering, apply the rab beted portion ofsaid covering to one face of heel to constitute a frame for a panel,applying a second covering to another face of the heel, and securingsaid coverings together with the margin of said second coveringsuperposed upon said rabbete'd margin.

12. That improvementin methods of covering heels which consists inrabbeting the margin of a cover portion and applying said cover nortionto one face of heel to frame one side of a panel, applying to said heelace second cover portion adapted to constitute a panel and positioningit with its nargin overlying the rabbeted margin of the frst coverportion, trimming the margin of tie second cover portion along the lineof the inner edge of the channel formed by rabbetthe first coverportion, and fitting the margin of the second cover portion within saidchannel.

13. That improvement in methods of cove ing heels which consists inassembling wit a heel a cover portion adapted to constitute a panel andanother cover portion adapted to frame one side of the panel, one ofsaid cover )ortions havin one o' its marins of said shoulder, andfitting said margins to get-her with the trimmed edge of one abuttingthe shoulder of the other.

14. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists incovering the rear and sides of a heel with a covering having marginalportions extending forwardly beyond the lateral breast ec ges of theheel, turning said'marginal covering portions inwardly and laying themagainst the lateral margins otthe heel breast, applying a breastcovering to cover the uncovered portion of the heel breast and tooverlap said inturned margins of the side covering, trimming eachlateral margin of the breast covering along a line spaced outwardly fromthe inner edge of the respective inturned side cover margin and spacedinwardly a substantial distance from the ad acent lateral breast edge toprovide a heel breast panel overlapping the inner portions of saidinturned side cover margins and framed by the outer portions of saidinturned side cover margins, and reducing the edge thickness of themargins of the breast coverings to make them substantially flush withsaid frame portions.

15. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists inapplying to the rear and sides of a heel a side cover having extensionsadapted to overlap the lateral margins of the heel breast, rabbetingsaid cover extensions to receive the lateral edges of a. heel breastcovering, applying said side cover extensions to the lateral margins oithe heel breast, applying to the heel breast a covering wide enough toextend outwardly beyond the rabbeted edge portions of the side coverextensions, trimming the lateral margins oi the breast covering alongthe lines of the outer edges of the rabbeted surfaces on the side coverextensions, and securing the trimmed edges of the breast covering tosaid rabbeted surfaces.

16. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists inapplying to the rear and sides of a heel a side cover havin extensionsadapted to overlap the latera margins of the heel breast, slriving saidcover extensions to produce beveled surfaces spaced from the lateraledges of the heel. breast, applying the skived side cover extensions tothe heel breast, applying to the heel breast a covering wide enough toextend outwardly beyond the beveled edge portions of the side coverextensions, trimming the lateral margins of the breast covering alongthe lines the outer edges of the beveled surfaces on the side coverextensions, securing the trimmed edges of the breast covering to theside cover extensions, and butting the lateral margins of the breastcovering to make them flush with the adjacent surfaces of the side coverextensions.

17. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists inapplying to the. rear and sides of a heel a side cover having extensionsadapted to overlap the lateral margins of the breast face, forming ineach of said side cover extensions a shoulder spaced from the adjacentbreast corner of the heel and a beveled surface extending from theshoulder to the free edge of the cover ex tension, securing the bevelededge portions of the cover xtensions to the heel breast, applying to theheel breast a covering of a thickness equal to the depth of saidshoulders and wide enough to extend outwardly beyond said shoulders,trimming the lateral margins of the breast covering along the lines ofsaid shoulders, fitting the trimmed edges of the breast covering withinsaid shoulders,

and securing them to the beveled surfaces of.

the side cover margins.

18. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists inapplying to the rear and sides of a heel a covering having extensionsadapted to overlap the lateral margins of the breast face of the heel,rabbeting said extensions to provide recessed surfaces to be engaged bythe lateral margins of a breast covering and shoulders to be en gaged bythe edges of the breast covering, applying the rabbeted side coverextensions to skiving the outer surface of the inwardly bent portion ofeach side cover extension to pro vide a beveled surface extending fromthe inner edge of said inwardly bent portion to a location between theline of bend and the ad--' jacent lateral edge of the heel breast,laying the beveled side cover extension against the heel breast therebyeliminating the bend and causing a shoulder to be formed at the outermargin of the beveled surface, trimming a breast covering to lit theheel breast between said shoulders and applying the trimmed breastcovering to the heelbreast.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

LEWIS J. BAZZONI.

the heel breast, applying to the breast a covering wide enough tooverlie and extend beyond the rabbeted portions of the 'side' coverextensions, trimming the breast covering along the lines of theshoulders in the side cover extensions, and fitting the trimmed marginsof the breast covering within the rabbeted portions of the side coverextensions.

19. That improvement in methods of cover ing heels which consists inapplying to the rear and sides of a heel a covering having extensionsada ted to overlap the lateral marsins of the breast face. forming ineach of said cover extensions a depressed surface extending outwa rdlvfrom the inner edge of the extension and a shoulder spaced inwardly fromand parallel to the adiacent lateral edge of the heel breast andapplvinrr the side cover ex ensions to the breast of the heel. applyinga breast covering to the heel breast with the lateral margins of thebreast covering overlvinn' the side cover extensions andextending o t'ardlv bevond said shoulders. trimming the bre st covering to litbetweenlcaid sh oulders while engine the trimming cuts from the lateraledges of the heel breast. and securing the lateral margins of the breastcoverin! in place against the depressed surfaces shoulders of the sidecover margins.

20. That improvement in methods of covering heels which consistsinanplvine' to the rear and sides of a heel. a covering havin extensionsadapted to overlap the lateral margins of the breast face, bending eachof said cover extensions inwardly at a sharp angle along a line aboveand parallel to the adacent' lateral edge of the heel breast,

